Introduction

A pongee fabric that is full of vitality and shows natural features. The most common varieties are semi-elastic pongee, full-elastic pongee, and matte pongee.
Chun Yafang fabric (PONGEE) is a kind of pongee fabric full of vitality and showing natural features. It is an old variety that has been around for a long time. The textile industry in Shengze area has revised its products. In addition to using matte silk In addition to the innovation of raw materials and weaving technology, the post-dyeing and finishing process is also extended. The density is increased, the hand feeling is softer, and the function is more expanded. The weaving styles of pongee in Shengze Town, Wujiang District, Suzhou City include plain weave, twill weave, strong strip, five pieces, jacquard, etc., forming a series of perennial marketable fabrics.

Variety

The most common types of pongee fabrics are semi-elastic pongee, full-elastic pongee, and matte pongee.
half bomb type
“Half-stretch pongee” fabrics have been used as lining accessories for suits, suits, jackets, children’s wear, and professional wear. Now, with the development of domestic exhibitions and advertising industries, the demand for flags is increasing day by day. “Half-stretch pongee” It has become a major sales highlight in Wujiang China Oriental Silk Market. The warp of the fabric is made of polyester FDY60D/24F, and the plain weave is interwoven on a water-jet loom. The gray fabric is processed by softening, weight reduction, dyeing, and shaping. Soft and smooth, not easy to crack, not easy to fade, bright luster, etc., especially for making all kinds of colorful flags. After dyeing and finishing, the product is subjected to mechanical high-temperature ironing, calendering and embossing process, which is an “environmentally friendly” deep processing, which makes the lining bright in color, soft to the touch, and good in air permeability, winning the favor of garment manufacturers. Especially the embossed lining and jacquard lining are comparable, and the price is much cheaper. The width of the finished fabric is 150cm, and the weight per square meter is about 100 grams. The current transaction price of the gray fabric in the market is between 1.50-1.60 yuan/m. More than a dozen bright colors such as vegetable green, light yellow, rose red, scarlet, etc. are more popular. Because the fabric is widely used, it has become one of the perennial marketable fabrics in the market.
full bomb type
“Full elastic pongee” has a wide variety and complete specifications, among which 240T and 300T are the most popular in the market. The warp and weft of this fabric are interwoven with polyester DTY75D/72F (internet yarn), and the fabric is flat (1/2 twill, 1/2 3 twill) texture woven. The weaving process is ingenious, and the dyeing and finishing process applies “environmental protection” dyeing, which greatly improves the appearance and gloss of the cloth surface. The post-dyeing and finishing process of the product continues, such as: coating PVC, PU, velvet coating, and other fabrics. Electric embroidery, powder dot compounding, sanding, calendering, etc. make full-stretch pongee more widely applicable, so the market sales increase year by year. The finished fabric width is 148CM. The current market price of 240T is between 2.65-2.85 yuan/m, and 300T is about 4.00 yuan/m. The dyeing and processing fee in Shengze area is generally about 1.80 yuan/m. Cloth shrinkage is 8-10%. In terms of color, camel gray, coffee, rose red, and yellow are the most popular among merchants. After different finishing processes, the fabric has a wide range of uses. It can be used to make down jackets, casual jackets, children’s clothes, etc. The waterproof coated fabric can also be used to make waterproof clothing, umbrella rain capes, sunshades, etc. Some of the market trading methods are color selection and ordering, and some are spot transactions. In addition to selling well in the domestic market, this kind of fabric is also sold to dozens of countries overseas.
Matting type
“Delustering pongee” belongs to the family of full-elastic pongee series. The warp and weft of the fabric are all made of polyester matting DTY75D/72F or 50D/72F (internet yarn). Among them, a fabric specification of 300T is woven with plain weave double change texture made. The unique weaving process and the application of “environmentally friendly” dyeing in the dyeing and finishing process have greatly improved the appearance of the cloth surface, especially the matte polyester fabric has a softer color. The “dull pongee” fabric has a wide range of applications, so it has been favored by Jia Nanbei and Nanbei since it entered the market, and has become a sales hotspot in the eastern market. Its cloth width is 160cm. At present, the transaction price of white blanks in the market is between 4.70-4.90 yuan/meter. The dyeing processing fee in Shengze area is generally about 1.20-1.40 yuan/m, and the shrinkage rate of dyed cloth is about 8 points. In terms of market colors, camel gray, coffee, navy blue, and earthy yellow are the most popular among merchants. The fabric can be used to make autumn casual jackets, children’s clothes, etc. According to market operators, such fabrics are not only sold well in the domestic market, but also sold to dozens of countries overseas. With the change of weather and the update of people’s clothing fabrics, “full-stretch pongee” will surely occupy the second half of the year. City, the future is very bright.

Model distinction

1. The interpretation of “T” in “240T pongee” is: the sum of warp and weft yarns per inch is called “T”. (1 inch=2.54CM)
2. 75D*150D/288F: It means that the warp yarn is 75D polyester yarn, and the weft yarn is 150D (denier), 288F (Filament) polyester yarn.
D is the abbreviation of DENIER (denier), which is an expression method of fineness of chemical fibers. It refers to the weight in grams of a 9000-meter-long silk at a given moisture regain, also known as denier. The larger the D, the thicker the yarn. eg: 75D is thicker than 50D.
S is the abbreviation of British branch, which is used to express the fineness of pure cotton yarn. It refers to the number of 840 yards (1 yard = 0.9144 meters) of cotton yarn in one pound (454 grams). That is, there are several 840 yards, that is, several sticks. So the larger the S, the finer the yarn. eg: 32S is thinner than 21S.

process flow

The specifications of pongee can be divided into three types: 1 half elastic pongee 2 full elastic pongee 3 extinction pongee
According to the needs of customers, it can be made into jacquard, plain weave, solid strip, chiseled weave, etc.
1 Semi-elastic pongee, advantages: It can be used as accessories for many garments, such as suits and suits, and plays the role of inner lining. Moreover, it can have diversity in dyeing and finishing, and can be adjusted according to the popularity of clothing.
Process flow example: polyester FDY60D/24F is used as raw material, weft is DTY100D/36F; warp and weft density is 386*280/10cm, commonly known as 170T
2 Full elastic pongee, advantages: it can be listed as a functional fabric, and can be used for rain cloth, umbrella, down jacket, sunshade, etc. There are many specifications and varieties. It is the most popular pongee fabric.
Example of technological process: The warp and weft of the fabric are interwoven with polyester DTY75D/72F (internet yarn), and the fabric is woven with flat (1/2 twill, 1/3 twill) texture. Among them, the two specifications with the best sales volume are 240T and 300T.
3. Matt pongee, advantages: Strictly speaking, extinction pongee also belongs to the full elastic pongee series. Mainly used for children’s clothing, jackets, etc. It is more popular in the north and south markets and has a large demand.
Technological process: The warp and weft of the fabric are all made of polyester matte DTY75D/72F or 50D/72F (internet yarn). Among them, a fabric specification of 300T is woven with plain weave and double changing texture. The width is generally 160cm.